Tasting Terroir in Alsace Wines: A Journey Through the Region
Alsace is a region in the northeast of France known for making some of the best wines in the world. It is in the foothills of the Vosges, which have a unique climate and soil that makes it a great place to grow many different kinds of grapes. As a result, Alsace wines are known for their elegance, finesse, and unique aromas, making them a favorite among wine lovers and sommeliers worldwide.
In this blog post, we'll learn more about Alsace as a wine region by examining its history, geography, grape varieties, and winemaking methods.
Our objective is to inform sommeliers of everything they need to know about Alsace wines so they can recommend the best ones to their guests while recognizing the region's unique terroir.
This blog post is specifically written for Advanced Sommeliers CMS or WSET Diploma students looking to deepen their understanding of Alsace wines and terroir. However, all sommeliers and wine students are welcome to read this blog as it provides useful information on the unique soils of the Alsace region and how they impact the flavors of the wines produced there. Whether you are a wine professional or just starting your wine education journey, we hope you find this blog informative and enjoyable.
Vosges Mountains
Alsace is a region in the northeast of France. The Vosges mountains surround it to the west, and to the east, the Rhine river bounds it. Alsace's vineyards are on the eastern slopes of the Vosges mountains, where they are protected from the winds that blow from the west. This area has a semi-continental climate, meaning the winters are cold, and the summers are hot, dry, and sunny.
The Rhine river also affects the unique microclimate of the area. The river helps keep the weather from getting too hot or cold. In addition, the Vosges mountains act as a natural barrier, keeping the rain from getting through. This is why Alsace has the least amount of rain. Because of this, the vines don't need as many treatments, so the wines are made more naturally.
The Rhine river and the Vosges mountains create a unique microclimate that makes it warm during the day and cools at night. This helps the grapes ripen slowly and for a long time, which makes for high-quality wines.
Soil
Alsace's terroir is varied and plays an important role in making wine in the area. The vineyards are on a strip of land that runs along the eastern foothills of the Vosges Mountains. Geology in this area is very complicated, with many different types of soil that have changed over millions of years.
Alsace's vineyards have different soil types, so the region's wines come in many styles. Limestone, marl, sandstone, and granite are some of the most common soil types. Limestone soils are perfect for making dry, mineral-driven wines, while granite soils give the wines a distinct spicy flavor and firm tannins.
Marl soils, a mix of clay and limestone, make rounder wines with more body, while sandstone soils give the vines good drainage and help make more floral wines and light.
The Alsace region has a variety of terroirs or soils that influence the characteristics of the wines produced there. These terroirs are on mountainsides, sub-Vosges hills, and the plain. Mountain-side terroirs include granite, gneiss, shale, volcanic sedimentary, and sandstone.
Sub-Vosges hills have calcareous, marl-calcareous, marl-sandstone, marl-limestone-sandstone, calcareous-sandstone, and clayey-marl terroirs.
On the plain, there are colluvial and piedmont plain, alluvial, and loess and loam terroirs. Each terroir has unique composition and characteristics, such as acidity, structure, aroma, and age-ability, affecting the wine produced there.
Granite and Gneiss
The terroirs of granite and gneiss are situated on the slopes of the Vosges Mountains. They consist of volcanic and magmatic rocks that disintegrate and form coarse sand known as arenaceous granite. The soil's ability to retain water is poor, and its fertility relies on its capacity to release mineral elements. Wines produced on these chemically acidic terroirs are always highly expressive in their youth and possess a light structure.
Volcanic - Sedimentary Soil
Volcanic-sedimentary terroirs were formed about 300 million years ago when lava and ash from volcanic eruptions solidified underwater. The resulting rock is hard, compact, and not prone to crumbling easily. These dark, stony terroirs can retain heat and enhance the grape varieties. Wines produced on these terroirs are intense and full-bodied, with a distinctive smoky aroma.
Grapes
The first grape variety is Sylvaner, native to Austria, and makes a light, fresh, and fruity dry wine with citrus aromas mixed with white flowers or vegetal aromas with a lot of cut grass. Sylvaner goes well with oysters, cold cuts, and other light seafood dishes.
Pinot Blanc has a beautiful softness, freshness, and a sense of ripe fruit like peach, pear, and apple. It also has hints of flowers. It's a versatile wine that goes well with many different dishes, like appetizers, quiches, and pies.
Riesling is a late-ripening grape variety that makes wines full of life and smells nicely like citrus fruits, flowers, and minerals. It is the undisputed king of Alsace wines because of how well its acidity, fruitiness, and structure all work together. In addition, Riesling goes well with strong flavors of sushi, seafood, sauerkraut, and other dishes.
Muscat is a dry, fruity wine that smells like blackcurrant buds and elderflowers. Also, it looks like you're biting into a bunch of grapes. Muscat is a great drink before a meal and goes well with asparagus and other light foods.
Pinot Gris is a grape with copper-colored berries that makes strong, smooth wines that smell like undergrowth and are sometimes smokey. It tastes best with volatiles, white meats, or fish with sauce.
Gewurztraminer is unique to Alsace. It gets its name from the German word "Gewürz," which means "spice." Gewurztraminer grapes make expressive, full-bodied wines with strong fruit, flowers, and spices aromas. Gewurztraminer goes well with Asian and spicy foods, strong cheeses, and foie gras.
When Pinot Noir is made into rosé or red wine, it has aromas of red fruits or a hint of earthy. As it ages in oak barrels, it develops aromas of black cherry. It goes best with grilled meats or with a piece of Roquefort cheese.
Style of Wines
Alsace makes many different kinds of wine, such as dry, sweet, and sparkling. Dry and off-dry wines are the most common types, which are made by letting the grapes ferment all the way. Sweet wines like Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de Grains Nobles are made by letting the grapes get too ripe on the vine. These wines have more sugar in them.
Alsace also uses the traditional method to make Crémant d'Alsace, a sparkling wine made in the same way that Champagne is.
Alsace Grand Cru
Alsace Grand Cru vineyards are among the world's most sought-after and prestigious wine regions. In 1975, the French government established a classification system to identify the best vineyards in Alsace, resulting in 51 Grand Cru vineyards across the region.
Each Grand Cru vineyard has unique characteristics, including soil type, microclimate, and exposure to sunlight. These factors all contribute to the overall flavor profile of the wines produced in each vineyard.
Some of the most well-known Grand Cru vineyards in Alsace include:
Schlossberg: Known for producing some of the region's most complex and age-worthy wines, the Schlossberg vineyard is located on steep granite slopes in the heart of Alsace. A producer like Domaine Weinbach is among the top name in this Grand Cru.
Rangen: Considered one of the most challenging vineyards in Alsace due to its extremely steep slopes, the Rangen Grand Cru is located on volcanic soils and produces powerful, mineral-driven wines. Producers like Pinot Gris Grand Cru Rangen Clos Saint Theobald are top names in this Grand Cru.
Sommerberg: This Grand Cru vineyard is located in the southern part of Alsace and is known for producing wines with a rich, full-bodied character and a distinct smoky aroma. Top producers in this Grand Cru include Domaine Albert Boxler.
Other notable Grand Cru vineyards in Alsace include Altenberg de Bergheim, Geisberg, Brand, and Rosacker.
When seeking Alsace Grand Cru wines, looking for top producers committed to quality and sustainability is important. Many of these wines can age for decades, making them a worthwhile investment for any wine collector or enthusiast.
CLOS SITES
Vineyard
As AOC rules require, most vineyards in Alsace use a single or double Guyot training system. The fruiting zone is usually 1–1.2 m above the ground, higher than other places. This is done to protect the fruit from frost and humidity. The canopies are also higher—up to 1.9 m above the ground to get the most sun.
There needs to be more space between each row of vines to avoid shading. Most vineyards have between 4,400 and 4,800 vines per hectare, with fewer vines on the valley floor and more on the slopes. Especially on grand cru sites, steep slopes may need to be terraced.
The Foehn wind is a warm and dry wind that blows across the Alsace region and affects the grapes and vineyards in the Alsace wine region. This wind can be both good and bad for the grapes. On the one hand, it can help dry the grapes and prevent diseases, leading to better-quality wines. On the other hand, it can also cause the grapes to lose acidity and result in unbalanced wines.
Winemaking
Alsace winemakers aim to preserve the primary fruit character of their wines, and most wines are made from single-grape varieties. Some producers use pre-fermentation skin contact or keep the pressed grapes in the press for longer to extract flavor compounds and add to the texture of the wine.
Cool fermentation temperatures are used for Muscat, Riesling, and Sylvaner, while mid-range temperatures are more likely to be used for Gewurztraminer. Low fermentation temperatures are avoided as they can produce a banana aroma in Gewurztraminer, which is not desired.
Fermentation vessels are used as no additional flavors are desired. These can be either traditional large old oak vessels or stainless-steel tanks. Smaller, high-quality producers often prefer ambient yeasts, believing they contribute to terroir-expressive wines. As a general rule, malolactic conversion is typically avoided on the white grape varieties grown in Alsace, as the aim is to retain primary fruit. Very little new oak is used, reducing production costs.
Wines are typically aged in the same large neutral casks on fine lees to retain primary flavors but without lees stirring to maintain freshness. Historically, there needs to be more consistency about fermenting to full dryness versus leaving small or larger amounts of residual sugar, with buyers of the wines needing to know the style of individual producers. However, increasing producers now indicate sweetness levels on the back label, and the region agrees on a standard approach to this issue.
Alsace AOC allows chaptalization within limits set by the EU, which is particularly useful in cool years due to its northern location. However, this can result in wines with lower flavor concentration due to the maximum yield limitations of 80 hL/ha for Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, 90 hL/ha for Riesling, 100 hL/ha for Pinot Blanc, and 60 hL/ha for Pinot Noir in the Alsace AOC. If the name of one of the thirteen communes or a lieu-dit is added, the maximum yield is further reduced to 72 and 68 hL/ha, respectively.
For grand cru wines, the yield is limited to 55 hL/ha and, in some cases, 50 hL/ha. Introduced in 1975, the grand cru category typically features single-variety wines made from the "noble" varieties of Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer.
Some well-known grand crus include Rangen, Geisberg, Schoenenbourg, and Zotzenberg, with four vineyards permitted to produce blends or Sylvaner as grand cru wines. Although some producers initially rejected the Grand Cru label, key producers such as Trimbach and Hugel have recently started to use it.
Since 2011, each of the 51 Grand Cru vineyards has become an individual Grand Cru, which allows for more flexibility in rules, such as lowering the maximum yield or introducing a new variety such as Pinot Noir.
While some Grand Cru syndicates have applied for the authorization of Pinot Noir, it has yet to be granted by INAO. Discussions are underway to introduce a premier cru classification for single vineyards in the region.
GENTIL
Gentil" is a special designation for blended wines from the Alsace region, which must contain at least 50% noble grape varieties. The remaining portion of the blend can consist of any other grape variety permitted in Alsace AOC wines, but the base wines must be vinified separately. This means that winemakers must carefully select and blend their wines to meet the strict requirements for the "Gentil" designation.
Food Pairing
Riesling: With its high acidity and citrusy notes, Riesling pairs well with a wide range of foods, including seafood, white meats, and spicy dishes. Its acidity also helps to cut through rich or fatty foods, making it a good match for cream-based sauces and dishes.
Pinot Gris: Pinot Gris has a rich, full-bodied texture with notes of stone fruit and honey. It pairs well with foods with a slightly sweet or spicy flavor profile, such as grilled meats, roasted vegetables, and Asian cuisine.
Gewürztraminer: Gewürztraminer is a highly aromatic grape with notes of lychee, rose, and spice. It pairs well with spicy or savory foods, such as curries, Thai cuisine, and smoked meats.
Pinot Blanc: Pinot Blanc is a light-bodied wine with crisp, refreshing acidity. It pairs well with light seafood dishes, salads, appetizers, and creamy cheeses.
Sylvaner: Sylvaner is a light-bodied, refreshing wine with green apple and citrus notes. It pairs well with light appetizers, salads, and seafood dishes.
When pairing food and wine, it's important to consider the flavors and textures. For example, lighter-bodied wines such as Sylvaner or Pinot Blanc pair well with light dishes, while fuller-bodied wines such as Gewürztraminer or Pinot Gris can stand up to more robust flavors. Similarly, wines with higher acidity, such as Riesling, can help cut through fatty or creamy dishes, while sweeter wines, such as Gewürztraminer, pair well with spicy or savory flavors. Ultimately, the best pairings are often a matter of personal preference, so don't be afraid to experiment and try new combinations!
Marc d'Alsace
Alsace's grape marc-based eaux-de-vie is regulated under the Marc d'Alsace appellation. This clear spirit must be produced using grape marc grown in the Alsace region. Only eaux-de-vie made from Gewurztraminer marc has been granted AOC status.
Lorraine is a wine-growing region in northeastern France, situated between Champagne and northern Alsace, near the German border. Despite its rich wine-making history, Lorraine is currently the smallest wine region in France with only 115 hectares of vineyards.
Two regional wine-growing areas were defined in Lorraine in 1951, and they produce wines under the AOP Côtes de Toul and AOP Moselle designations. AOP Côtes de Toul covers around 80 hectares of vineyards with limestone soils, and allows red wine varieties such as Gamay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, as well as the white wine variety Auxerrois. A local specialty of this region is the light rosé wine, Vin gris, made from lightly pressed Gamay and at least 10% Pinot Noir.
AOP Moselle covers 35 hectares of vines situated on stony limestone soils in around 20 communes on the slopes of the Moselle and Seille rivers. This region allows red wine varieties such as Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Pinot Meunier, as well as white wine varieties like Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Müller-Thurgau, Gewürztraminer, and Riesling.
Overall, Lorraine may be small in size, but it has a rich wine-making heritage and produces unique and expressive wines that are worth exploring by wine enthusiasts.
Alsace wines are unique, with a strong emphasis on terroir and the expression of individual grape varieties. Key points to remember include the importance of the noble grape varieties Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat, as well as the use of dry to off-dry styles and the avoidance of malolactic fermentation to preserve primary fruit flavors. The region's history and winemaking traditions have led to various styles and techniques, including chaptalization and large neutral containers for aging.
Despite the challenges of marketing and recognition, Alsace is a crucial region in the world of wine, producing high-quality wines that are sought after by enthusiasts and collectors alike. In addition, its unique culture, gastronomy, and stunning landscapes make it a must-visit destination for wine lovers.
We encourage you to explore and enjoy the diversity of Alsace wines, both on their own and with food. From classic Alsatian dishes to international cuisine, the flavor profiles of each grape variety can complement and enhance the flavors of many different foods. So whether you're a sommelier, a wine enthusiast, or a casual drinker, there's an Alsace wine out there that's perfect for you.
